Picking the right parts

The most crucial part of getting right is picking pieces that do what you want and working with each other. Choosing wrong or incompatible PC parts may cause issues, damage other components, or require time to return said products to retailers. In short, we’ll need a case, processor (CPU), graphics card (GPU), RAM, power supply (PSU), motherboard, cabling, and some storage to complete the barebones checklist.

Compatibility

Here’s what you’ll need to build a PC:

• Case: Cases come in different form factors, depending on the PC size you wish to build. It is less important overall.
• PSU: This converts AC to DC power from your home socket to components. Needs to supply enough stable power.
• CPU: You have the choice of AMD and Intel for desktop processors.
• Motherboard: A motherboard must match the same socket type of CPU. Chipset and other features are all down to pricing and preference.
• RAM: Faster frequencies and lower latencies generally mean better RAM, though you’ll need to ensure your motherboard can support the same clock speed, or it’ll be limited. Most new boards support DDR4 or DDR5. DDR4-3200 or DDR5-4800 is a safe bet for most CPUs.
• Storage: Entirely down to personal requirements, though we always recommend an SSD for installing the OS.
• GPU: This is optional and is only really needed if you plan to do some gaming or intensive workloads. In that case, spend as much as you can.

Some tools you will need to build a PC-  

• Toolkit.
• LED light source.
• Flat workspace (no carpet).
• Anti-static mat.
• Anti-static wristband.
• Magnetic parts tray.

How to build a PC

You’ll need to check the layout and see which components need to be installed first, but starting with the power supply is usually the best way to go. You’ll first want to put aside the box/bag of screws that come with the case, as we’ll need these for the steps ahead.

Installing the CPU

Before we fit everything inside the PC case, we’ll need to check all our components work out of the box. Instead of throwing everything inside the case and discovering an issue, unpacking everything on your chosen flat surface and installing a few components to test is the best way. Unpack your PSU, CPU, RAM, and motherboard for this. The first step is installing the CPU, which requires you to remove the motherboard from its packaging too. This is a super-easy process, regardless of whether you use an AMD or Intel chip.

• Unpack the motherboard from its packaging.
• Place the motherboard atop its cardboard box.
• Open the CPU latch.
• The plastic cap will come off once we install the CPU.
• Insert the CPU, matching notches, and indicators into the socket
• Close the latch to secure the CPU.

Now, we’ll need to install the CPU cooler. Depending on the cooler you’ve purchased, you may have a layer of thermal paste already applied. If not, we’ll need to do this before installing the cooler. You’ll need to pay close attention to the manual. Therefore it’s better to do all these steps with the motherboard outside the PC case for easier handling.

Installing the RAM

RAM is sensitive and should be handled with care. Avoid contact with the pins on the underside of each module. The RAM slots on a motherboard are located at the right of the CPU. Check the motherboard manual for which RAM slots will be used depending on how many sticks.

• Unclip the RAM locks on the motherboard module slots.
• Match the RAM module notches to those found in the slots on the motherboard.
• Insert the module carefully, using light and even force across the stick.
• After it inserts into the slot, push down on either side of the RAM module until it securely clicks into place.

Check everything works

With the CPU and RAM installed, the motherboard is ready to boot. If you’re using a Ryzen or Intel CPU without integrated graphics processing, we’ll also need to install our GPU here to get an output from the motherboard. Unpack the GPU from its box and carefully set it into the top PCIe slot. Press down until you hear it click. The GPU should be okay to place on top of the motherboard. All we require now is power. Reference your motherboard and PSU manuals to sort the right cables and connectors.

• Connect the main 24-pin ATX cable to the PSU and motherboard.
• Connect the CPU ATX power cable (usually a 4+4 pin connector, some motherboards take two or three) to the PSU and motherboard.
• Install any PCIe power cabling for the GPU if it requires it.
• Connect an HDMI or DisplayPort cable to an available port on your GPU (or motherboard if your CPU has an integrated GPU).
• Plug in a keyboard to a free USB port on the motherboard.

Usually, to turn on a PC, you’ll want to hit the power button, but since our PC is not technically inside a case yet, we have no power button. Luckily, we don’t require the power button to turn everything on. We can fake a physical button by simply using a screwdriver to create a bridge between the POWER_SW pins on the motherboard. Again, consult your motherboard manual to locate these pins. By merely making contact with the + and – pins for POWER_SW, we’re telling the motherboard to turn the system on. It’s precisely what happens when you hit the power button on your PC case. Give it a few attempts if you can’t quite make the connection between the two pins.

If everything boots through the BIOS and you see the splash screen, go into the setup by hitting the DEL key as the system cycles. Check that all your RAM is registered here. Then, Shut everything down and disconnect all the cables, removing the GPU and placing it back into its protective wrapping. It’s now time to install the PC inside the case.

Installing the PSU

The PSU is the most critical component of any PC. It provides the juice required for all the computing magic to take place. Depending on the case you’ve purchased, we’ll need to install the unit with the fan facing up or down. To determine the most suitable, check if you have a vent at the bottom of the case. If so, meet the PSU fan downwards. You’ll want to have all your cables connected to the PSU before installing it to make your job easier. Depending on the PSU you’ve purchased, it may be one of the following:

• Fully modular: No cables are permanently connected to the PSU.
• Semi-modular: Some cables are permanently fixed, usually ATX and CPU power.
• Non-modular: Every cable is connected and cannot be removed from the PSU.

Installing the motherboard

With the CPU, more relaxed, and RAM modules installed, the motherboard is ready to be screwed to the backplate inside the case. First, we need to install the I/O shield, a long metal piece with cut-outs for all the rear ports and connections. This is optional, but recommended accessory helps provide electromagnetic interference (EMI) protection.

• Place the I/O shield on the rear cut-out in the PC case and click it into place.
• Hold the motherboard atop the backplate to see where standoffs need to be screwed in. Different sizes need different holes.
• Install the standoffs for the motherboard if not already pre-installed.
• Lower the motherboard onto the standoffs.
• Tighten the screws, but do not overtight them. Just enough to secure the board in place.
• Check the sides of the motherboard by lightly pulling to ensure every inch has been secured.

Installing storage drives

Storage drives are essential devices that hold not only the operating system but also all programs, personal media, and all other data. Using an SSD (be it M.2 or 2.5-inch) drive for the primary OS partition is recommended, which enables quick booting and reliable performance. Users can store data on traditional (3.5-inch) mechanical drives. M.2 PCIe NVMe drives are the fastest, with SATA M.2 and 2.5-inch drives coming in second. 3.5-inch drives last for speed but are the most affordable, especially at higher capacities.

M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD

• Unscrew and remove the M.2 SSD plate if your motherboard has one.
• Install a standoff for the M.2 module if not already installed.
• Place the M.2 drive atop the slot and secure it with a screw.
• Re-install the M.2 plate.

2.5-inch SSD

Some cases will simply allow you to screw in a 2.5-inch drive to a bay that supports larger 3.5-inch drives, though more modern PC cases allow you to use brackets to the rear of the motherboard tray.

• Take the SSD bracket and attach the drive, lining up the screw holes.
• Screw in the drive using the appropriate screws.
• Attach the bracket and secure it to the case.

3.5-inch HDD

• Extract the HDD bracket from one of the bays.
• Slide the mechanical drive into the bracket.
• Secure the drive to the said bracket using screws or a screwless mechanism.
• Slide the bracket and drive back into the bay.

Plugging everything in

With all components installed, it’s time to connect everything to the power supply and motherboard. Generally, it’s best to start with the power to the motherboard itself. Motherboard: The PSU has multiple cables for the board: 24-pin ATX and 8-pin CPU — the same cables we used earlier to test the motherboard, CPU, and RAM. Route these behind the backplate using available cut-outs. Storage drives: Most SSDs and HDDs today use SATA connectors. These are 15-pin flat connectors with a dip on one side to prevent plugging them incorrectly. Route these from the PSU to the drive bays and mounts, using more than one lead from the PSU if required.

Next, we need to connect the storage drives to the motherboard using SATA data cables. These are mostly more miniature versions of their power siblings that carry data instead. The motherboard usually has SATA ports located on the lower-right hand-side. It doesn’t matter which ports are used. Like the power cables, route these through cut-outs and grommets to the drive bays and mounts. We now have power to our storage drives, the motherboard, and data channels between the drives and the mainboard. All left is to connect the front panel I/O and other optional connectors (front panel USB, HD audio, etc.). Attaching the front panel I/O, which includes the power switch, reset switch, HDD activity LED, and power LED can be tricky. These pins stand up from the motherboard, which requires a careful approach when plugging in the small connectors. The motherboard manual should provide information on the layout of these pins and what they correspond to.

Adding case fans

Setting up an extra fan or two is worthwhile for added cooling capacity. PC cases may come with fans pre-installed, but if not, it’s simple to screw them into fan mounts. Just be sure to align them correctly and have the blades pointing correctly. Fans can have small arrows on the side showing which way the blades spin and where it will direct airflow.

Installing a GPU

We need to install GPU for some extra power for gaming and intense workloads. We usually leave the GPU until last because of how much space they typically take within the chassis.

• Unscrew the rear PCI case brackets that align with the PCI slot you will use.
• Check that the motherboard GPU card latch is open.
• Line up the GPU to the PCIe slot on the motherboard.
• Carefully insert the card and push it down once it has made contact with the slot, listening for a click of the latch securing.
• Use the rear bracket screws to secure the GPU to the PC case for added stability.
• If the GPU requires additional PSU power, connect the necessary cables.

Power up

Finally, It’s time to boot up the PC and ensure everything is working fine now that all components are inside the case. Switch on the PSU and hit the power switch. You will see a BIOS POST screen, asking for an OS to be installed if one is not detected, and finally, you are good to rock with your PC.